TREC Recs: Paris — The Remarkable Explorers Club

A good trip to Paris is a mix of old and new: equal parts classical Bistrot Paul Bert and divey taco counter fronted speakeasy Candelaria. On a recent visit to the French capital, we hit up some new spots in addition to old favorites, and threw together a little guide for lovely day.

Carette

The outdoor seating at Carette’s Marais location looks onto Place des Vosges, the oldest planned square in Paris, offering a romantic setting to start your day. Choose from their wide selection of teas and pastries, or grab a cappuccino and perfectly creamy scrambled eggs with chives.

*Photos (L-R): Sebastien Gabriel // Alex Merrell*

Toulouse-Lautrec: Resolutely Modern // Grand Palais - Closing Jan 27 2020

The first French retrospective of the artist in nearly thirty years, Resolutely Modern explores Toulouse-Lautrec’s contribution to late-19th-century Parisian culture on a larger scale than merely as a central figure in the over-mythologized Moulin Rouge. Spanning two floors and comprised of some 200 works, the exhibit captures a world much larger than a liquor drenched cabaret. Acutely aware of time and its passing during his short life, Toulouse-Lautrec aimed to capture spacetime in his work, with moments arrested on canvas so abruptly they seem to have lost none of their momentum.

Lola James Harper // Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche

Artistic lifestyle brand Lola James Harper has created a unique retail concept in Le Bon Marché, featuring their range of home and personal fragrances alongside an art shop, coffee/tea bar and a recording studio. The "Music For All Studio" allows visitors to sign up for time slots with LJH music teachers, who lead the group in recording an original track on various instruments, ultimately mixing the production and making it available digitally for the participants. The space is also hosting a series of talks with artists, artisans, and friends of the brand.

Oursin

On the second floor of the Galeries Lafayette Champs-Élysées, fashion designer Simon Porte Jacquemus has collaborated with Caviar Kaspia to open a portal to the Mediterranean coastline with their new restaurant Oursin. The white-washed walls, massive windows and artistic Greek ceramics provide all the feelings of a mini vacation while the pasta with clams and green olive and pistachio salsa will do the same for your taste buds.

Fondation Giacometti

If you prefer something calmer than battling hordes of tourists for a peek at that famous painting, head to the Fondation Giacometti, where the brilliant administrative team has capped capacity at 30-40 people to make the experience more intimate than a regular museum visit. The foundation houses a collection of 350 sculptures, 90 paintings, and over 2,000 drawings, as well as a meticulous reconstruction of the Swiss artist’s studio at the time of his death.

PoilÂne

Quite simply: our favorite pastry in town is the chausson aux pommes (literally - apple slipper), or anything apple related for that matter, from Poilâne.

Simrane

A handcrafted textile lover’s dream, this beautiful shop is a unique world of color and design. Simrane’s line of home furnishings, garments and accessories features block printed linens from India and promotes an ethical business model focused on the sustainable use of natural raw materials. We love picking up their gorgeous robes, scarves and toiletry bags as gifts.

L’Officine Universelle Buly 1803

Located a block away from Simrane, Buly is a new take on a classical French apothecary, originally opened in 1803. After “a century of sleep”, the beauty brand was revamped and relaunched, and its shop on Rue Bonaparte feels like stepping into the old world of historic artisanship without losing the perks of modern science. Though the brand has recently expanded internationally and many products can be purchased online, an in-person visit comes with the added bonus of a personal calligrapher, who can monogram gift tags and packages.

Grand Hotel Amour

Hotelier Thierry Costes and graffiti artist/nightclub impresario André Saraiva, both arbiters of all things Parisian-cool, have teamed up on their second property in the Amour hotels series. Grand Hotel Amour’s brasserie epitomizes the brand’s clever collision of art and fashion, and should be your chosen haunt for an evening snack and a cocktail amongst the city’s glittering creative crowd.

Serpent a Plume

We’re ending the day where we started it, on Place des Vosges, but the vibe will be very different. Once you find the less than obvious entrance, stepping into Serpent A Plume is unlike anything you’ve experienced in Parisian nightlife. Named for the divine Feathered Serpent of Meso-American mythology, the space is equal parts cavernous ancient temple and quirky 70s Bond villain lair. Prepare yourself for a late night dance party or, at the very least, a tasty cocktail and fantastic people watching.

For more Paris tips, check out guides from Chanel’s Frederica Tompkins, and our explorer-in-chief Alex Merrell.